Graeme, I recommend you join the Chiang Mai Massage Students page. You will find more rational response to your interest beyond visas. Those who said you can study on any visa were correct. As a licensed massage therapist in USA I did that in 2014 on visa exempt. For a longer stay the tourist visa and an extension would suffice for 90 days. Thai massage is powerful because it combines direct deep tissue work and Asian medicine focus on the Sen lines, aka meridians. I studied with Jack Chaiya, but there are many options.