Hi Ruth,
I drive a scooter in Phuket. One of the things I love most about being in Thailand. The feeling of freedom is amazing.
But it's not without danger. To minimize the danger I went to a very good motorcycle driving course in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida before moving to Thailand. Had never been on a motorcycle before. The course is good enough that you got your motorcycle endorsement when you graduated (no need to take the state's motorcycle driving test). 3 days about $300.
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I moved to Florida before coming to Thailand for three reasons (in order of importance):
1) Establish residence in a state that didn't have a state income tax
2) Attend this particular motorcycle course and get the motorcycle endorsement on my FL driver's license.
3) Acclimatize myself to living in a hot and humid tropical climate.
Objectives 1) and 2) were achieved. Still working on 3).
Highly recommend this course. Was not like boot camp, no-drill instructors fired live ammunition over our heads as we learned how to ride motorcycles. To this day I feel totally unqualified to lead an amphibious assault team. Also, unless I fell asleep in class we never had to lift the motorcycles over our heads while standing on one foot. But I could have done it, I was much younger then.
Got a motorcycle endorsement added to my Florida Driver's Licence. Went to AAA got my International Driver Permit (showing my endorsements for car and motorcycle).
Arrived in Thailand. Walked around on the street for one month observing traffic. Learned everything I could about crossing the street by following old dogs. Think about it. Rented a scooter (Honda Click). Went out in the countryside and drove around and around for several days until I was comfortable enough to drive in traffic. Initially, wouldn't drive at night, wouldn't drive in the rain, wouldn't drive in heavy traffic, or busy times of the day. Gradually, started doing all those things.
As foreign driver's license and international driving permit are only good for driving in Thailand for 3 months, I went to the Land Transport Office and got my Thai car and motorcycle driver's licenses based on my foreign license. Had to watch a video, did not have to take the written test, did not have to take a practical driving test, did have to take physical color recognition and reaction time tests. Got both car and motorcycle driver's licenses.
Some final random comments:
I drive an automatic Honda Click. All the time I would have to spend on shifting manually I use to watch the environment around me in an effort not to be killed. I need every second of that extra time the automatic saves me. Maybe some don't.
A man robs a bank and isn't caught by the police. Strangely, the lesson I draw from this isn't that robbing banks is legal. I feel the same way about people driving scooters without a motorcycle license. You might not get caught but what you're doing sure isn't legal no matter how much you fool yourself it is. You might never be caught, but on the other hand, you might be paying 1,000 baht to the boys in brown every time they catch you driving without a motorcycle driving license. Not to mention that without being a legal driver you've just given your insurance company a get-out-of-paying-for-your-accident card. Whether they play that card or not is up to them.
In the time some people spend arguing about whether you need an International Driving Permit you could have already got an International Driving Permit. Less than $15. Saves hours of your time having to educate the nice lady at the Land Transport Office about how you don't really need one and explaining to her the finer points of the Geneva Convention. Time much better spent getting a massage.
The average 10-year-old Thai child has more experience riding motorcycles than I do or ever will.
Get yourself a decent full-face motorcycle helmet and wear it always. When on the motorcycle, I mean.
Been riding a scooter in Thailand for 8 years and having a great time. Good wishes and good luck!